I WATCH distant ships and the light dance over the Irish Sea beyond the lush sheep-dotted pastures of the west coast of the Isle of Man. Above the campsite where I’m staying, at Kirk Michael, overnight snow has smoothed the upland’s creases.
From the Isle of Man, on a clear day, it’s possible to see Ireland, England, Scotland, and (with flawless skies), reputedly, Wales. Yet, while influenced by all, the Isle of Man has a unique character, community, and landscape. It is the only nation in the world to be designated, entirely, as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
There are more uplands than I realised, more wooded glens sheltering sparkling streams, more cultural heritage, and far more extraordinary scenery than I ever imagined. There is every reason to explore.
From Kirk Michael, where the parish church has many Celtic stone crosses, I follow the A4 coast road south. Early-morning mist lingers on the hilltops, while meadows that stretch down to shallow cliffs warm to the day’s sun.
The A4 leads to Peel, the largest town — with a population of 5500 — on the west coast. There’s much Norse influence, including Peel Castle, constructed by Vikings in the 11th century. The fortress, which is the largest heritage site of the Isle of Man, sits on St Patrick’s Isle, an islet attached by a causeway.
Legend says that this is where St Patrick first set foot on the Isle of Man in 444, establishing Christianity there, on his return from England to Ireland. St Patrick appointed St Germanus of Man as the first bishop on the island. Guarded by the fortress walls are the ruins of the 1000-year-old St Patrick’s Church, and St German’s Cathedral, built 800 years ago.
Alamy Port Erin, on the south-west of the island, with a view to Bredda Head
Between the 11th and 18th century, the cathedral was the headquarters of the diocese of the Isles, which included the Isle of Man, the Outer Hebrides, and much of the Inner Hebrides, making it one of the most important complexes within the history of the Celtic Church. The cathedral fell into disrepair, however, and a “new” cathedral, the Cathedral Church of St German, sits within the town among little painted cottages. The cathedral gardens follow the story of Christianity in Man from the early fifth century to present day.
Further south from Peel is the sheltered Niarbyl Beach, at Dalby. It’s known to be a wonderful location for stargazing, with near-perfect dark skies. On a winter day, I have the beach to myself, except for birdlife scurrying about among rocks and seaweed. A little whitewashed cottage, windows lined with carmine red, creates postcard scenery tucked beneath the cliffs.
The coastal footpath leads south to Lag ny Keeilley, the stone footprint of an early Christian chapel (or keill, as they’re known on Isle of Man), together with hermit’s closet; it’s a steady mile-and-a-half walk across rugged terrain.
Crossing the wild and seemingly remote uplands, en route along the A36, the road descends via a series of gentle bends to the south coast. Huge vistas extend across the south of the island to the east coast, a flat landscape of lush green fields.
My destination is the south-westernmost tip of the island, the Sound, where the Irish Sea squeezes between the Meayll Peninsula and the Calf of Man: a tiny island sanctuary for nesting birds. It’s possible to pick up the 100-mile coast path, preceded by breakfast or followed by lunch at the Sound Café, with panoramic views over the coastal landscape.
I travel back inland, stopping at Cregneash, a hamlet owned by Manx National Heritage, with an accolade as the oldest open-air folk museum in Britain. Here, a dozen or so traditional whitewashed crofting cottages provide a glimpse of island life from previous centuries. It’s a bucolic spot, especially on a sunny day when yellow gorse captivates against views of the Sound.
Peace vanishes overnight when a storm rises. By morning, I watch waves lash the east coast of the Meayll Peninsula. The coastline here is known for viewing basking sharks and dolphins, but the only wildlife I observe are white horses cresting the waves, thrashing their “manes” against black rocks as plumes of sea spray explode into the air.
As the storm subsides, I venture to Port Erin for a walk on Bradda Head. Initial views over the bracken headland are impressive enough, but a climb to Milner’s Tower, on top of Bradda Head, leads to extraordinary scenes over 400-foot craggy cliffs. A bird of prey hovers menacingly above the well-worn paths among the gorse and heather as I tiptoe to the cliff edge, and peer as far as I dare to look at the thundering drop below. Even on an overcast day, the location is remarkable.
All thoughts of winter dissipate for my final day on the island, when I return along the A36 to visit Tynwald Hill. This is sacred land to the Manx nation, where the island’s parliament gathers, initially at the Royal Chapel of St John the Baptist (also known as Tynwald Church), on Tynwald Day, in July, for an annual ceremony established by Norse Viking settlers more than 1000 years ago. The tiered monument represents the Isle of Man’s independence as a self-governing British Crown dependency, believed to be the oldest continuous parliament in the world.
Evidence of Viking heritage is found not only at Tynwald Hill. At Balladoole, in the south-east of the island, there’s evidence of an early Christian chapel and lintel graves with a Viking-boat burial.
I continue cross-country, up and down the hills and glens, to the Braaid, where a collection of standing stones are the remains of an Iron Age roundhouse and Norse long houses. Sitting among rough grassland, the sheltered spot has magnificent views over the village of Glen Vine and the central uplands.
I follow the A18, the highest road on the island, between the capital, Douglas, and the island’s northernmost town, Ramsey. In summer, the road becomes an important section of the famous TT motorcycle racecourse, passing by the summit of Snaefell, the only mountain that reaches more than 2000 feet.
Caroline MillsApproaching the Sound and the Calf of Man, a sanctuary for nesting birds, on the Meayll Peninsula
On the descent to Ramsey, I enjoy views across the island’s north. Afternoon tea at Milntown Estate and Gardens, one of Man’s few gentrified estates open to the public, all but completes my few days of exploration.
Having visited the southernmost point of the island, however, I’m keen to visit the northernmost tip, the Point of Ayre. It hides beyond heather-strewn heathland; the only giveaway from a distance is the tall, striped lighthouse — a beacon for seaward sailors and road-tripping visitors alike.
With hazy views of Scotland (only 16 miles away), I wander on to the shingle beach that shifts with every tide. Sea to the left and right envelopes the Point. As the sun sets on my visit, I want to blast out from the beachside foghorn not a message of warning, but one of welcome: “Come to the Isle of Man; you’ll love it!”
Travel details
The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company operates daily ferries for foot and car passengers to Douglas from Heysham, Lancashire (year round), and Liverpool (daily March-October; November-February weekend only). Ferries offer quiet lounges and cabins, including pet-friendly ones; the restaurant serves local Manx produce. Road conditions are good, and, while the island is relatively small, it still takes a few hours to drive from the northernmost point to the south. My accommodation included camping at Glendown Farm (tents; campervan pitches; shepherds huts; bell tents; self-catering accommodation), and Cronk Aashen Farm (tents, caravan/campervan pitches, self-catering cottages). When booking ferries and accommodation, note that the Isle of Man TT takes place from 26 May to 7 June.
steam-packet.com
visitisleofman.com
glendownfarm.com
cronkaashen.co.uk