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Book review: Where the Saints Came From: On pilgrimage in Wales and beyond by Anne Hayward

by
02 August 2024

Sally Welch finds Wales a wellspring of holiness

THE Wales Ambassador Scheme is “an online scheme providing people with training and knowledge about the special qualities of areas in Wales”. With family in Wales and a desire to learn more about the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park in particular, I have found it an excellent introduction to the history and culture of the place. An added incentive is being able to earn “e-badges” on completion of each level.

I was, therefore, delighted to be offered the chance to dive deeper into the rich and complex narrative that is the story of Wales. Anne Hayward’s book explores its “glorious heritage” of the Christian faith and the way in which this faith has changed and shaped the people, landscape, and architecture.

Where the Saints Came From is an energetic journey to 40 sites, each of which tells part of the story of Christianity in Wales, although she ventures as far as Lichfield and even Brittany as the story unfolds. The book is divided into chronological eras, and each chapter opens with a brief introduction to the main theme to be explored, followed by what is essentially a gazetteer of buildings, monuments, and artefacts, which help to unpack the leading narrative of the time.

But this book is not merely a “guide to interesting stuff about Christian history to see in Wales”. It has a driving force of its own: a deep love for the country and its people, undergirded by a rigorous approach to historical facts and a lucid and intelligent appraisal of their worth and context. The book is shot through with personal anecdotes, laced with witty asides, and permeated with a desire to share knowledge in an accessible way.

The shrine of the Welsh St Winefride in Shrewsbury Abbey. From the book

With the author, we find enlightenment and joy in the remains of rood stairs, tattered old bells, and battered socket stones, and are caught up in the complexity and richness of an unbroken history of deep engagement with the Christian faith, narrated with energy and humour. It is as if we were walking alongside Hayward herself on one of her many pilgrimages, sharing with her the thrill of discovery, and benefiting from her wisdom and knowledge as she brings old stones and derelict buildings to life.

I recommend the Wales Ambassador courses for anyone who wishes to learn more about the culture, ecology, and landscape of a glorious and diverse country. I recommend Where the Saints Came From to anyone who wishes to view the land west of Offa’s Dyke through the faith-filled eyes of a knowledgeable, humorous, and sensitive guide.

The Revd Dr Sally Welch is Diocesan Canon of Christ Church, Oxford.

Where the Saints Came From: On pilgrimage in Wales and beyond
Anne Hayward
YLolfa £9.99
(978-1-80099-486-7)
Church Times Bookshop £8.99

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