I DON'T suppose that there are many people who choose the airline they fly with on the basis of the wines that they serve in economy class, but there is one that I am unlikely to select again after it was announced, on a nine-hour transatlantic flight, "Government regulations allow us to serve you only one glass of wine."

One airline that has long supported its national wine industry is Air New Zealand. For 28 years, it has sponsored the leading wine competition in the country, and has, afterwards, featured the winning wines on board its flights. Now it has announced that, in the future, at least as far as economy and premium economy classes are concerned, it will serve the wines from just one wine company.

Coincidentally, that wine company, Villa Maria, is the closest winery to the airline's main home at Auckland Airport. Fortunately, Villa Maria also produces an outstanding range of wines, and claims to have won more awards than any other winery in the country. It is also the largest New Zealand winery still to be privately owned.

Like some other wine companies in the country, it was established by an immigrant family from Croatia. The company was originally established in 1949, but it did not move into producing "fine" wines until the 1980s; until then, like most other New Zealand wineries, it sold mainly Port, Sherry, Hock, and Sauternes. Now, it is recognised worldwide as a benchmark for New Zealand wines.

Fortunately, Villa Maria wines are widely available here. When one thinks of New Zealand wines, it is most probably Sauvignon Blanc that first comes to mind. Waitrose asked the winery to produce one for it in the classic herbaceous, Sancerre style, and the result is the Waitrose in Partnership 2014 vintage, at £10.49.

Other Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc on the market includes their Private Bin 2014 (Majestic, £7.32 a bottle if you buy two); the single-vineyard Taylors Pass 2013 (Tesco £14.99); and, from the Awatere Valley, Clifford Bay Reserve 2012 (Wine Rack, £15).

Other white wines in their stable include a Private Bin Chardonnay 2013 (Tesco, £10.49); Pinot Grigio 2013 (Waitrose, £10.49); spicy Gewürztraminer 2013 (Waitrose £9.99); and Dry Riesling 2013 (Wine Rack £7.49).

Perhaps their most interesting white wine is made from the Piedmontese grape Arneis. Tesco's mail-order side has the 2013 vintage of this wine, with intriguing flavours of ripe pears, in stock at £11.99. Rosé wines are a comparative rarity from New Zealand, but Tesco has the Private Bin offering, an unusual blend of Merlot, Pinot Gris, and Viognier, for £7.99.

Of their reds, my choice would be the Gold Medal-winning Cellar Selection Syrah 2008 from Hawkes Bay (Oddbins, £16), closely followed by the Marlborough Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2012 (Tesco and Wine Rack, £14.99).

You don't have to take a flight to taste good wine.