IN THE village where we live, I seem to have two traditional parts to play over the festive season; the first is to play Father Christmas, and the second is to produce mulled wine in industrial quantities. It is something of a relief that the former role is in decline, as a result of my being "outed" by some of the primary-school children who see me in other dramatic roles.

It seems that my mulled wine is appreciated, as I am regularly asked for the recipe. The truth is: I do not have one. It consists of cheap red wine, disguised by orange juice, a mixture of spices, brown sugar, and an assortment of remnants left in my drinks cupboard - this year, largely a raspberry liqueur.

This Christmas, I used Sainsbury's Basic Red, which came in a plastic bottle, was Spanish, and cost £3.49. I admit I did not try the wine, but the interesting thing about it for me was that it was just 10.5 per cent. Now, it is rare to see a wine that weighs in at less than 12 per cent. They frequently attain 13 per cent and even more.

There are a number of reasons for this overall increase in alcoholic degree: global warming means riper fruit with more sugar, and it is the fermentation of this that creates alcohol. Improved techniques in the vineyard also make a contribution.

Set against this, the Government is asking bars to offer smaller glasses of wine, and to have lower-degree "house" wines, in a bid to lessen the pressure on NHS resources from patients with alcohol-related problems. Alcohol comes to us in a number of different forms: spirits, fortified wine, and "light" wine, beer, and cider, and I am not aware of research that has been able to give proportional blame to these separate categories. It does appear, however, that the increased availability of home deliveries of groceries is now being given as an additional factor.

How are we to respond to this? It may be that we are responding, without being aware of it. During the past 12 months, it seems that sales of wine have fallen by four per cent by volume, but have increased by one per cent in value. We are drinking less, but drinking better - or, at least, more expensively.

To drink less, and drink better, I would start in Chile. For years, we have looked on this country as being a primary source for cheap varietal wines. The wines are generally better if a more restrictive area of production is named; for example, look out for Cabernet Sauvignons from Maipo, Chardonnays from Casablanca, Pinot Noirs and Sauvignon Blancs from Leyda, and Syrahs from Colchagua.

The same might be said of Australia; avoid wines from south-eastern Australia and choose Shiraz from the Barossa, Semillons from the Hunter Valley, Verdelhos from Swan River, and Riesling from Clare or the Eden Valley. Similarly, avoid wines that state just California as their birthplace, but go for those from Paso Robles, Russian River, Monterey, Sonoma, or Napa. You may have to pay more, but you will, almost certainly, get better value.

Perhaps the message for 2015 should be: "Drink less, but drink better."