LAST month, I was in Turin, to reverence the Holy Shroud. It
also allowed me to explore the city, and to give the pilgrimage a
culinary dimension. Eataly is a splendid eat-in deli, expanding
successfully to New York and beyond, where this Pasta with
asparagus crema was enjoyed. Make it now, before the
season ends, and whether or not you're on pilgrimage.
1 large onion, diced
2 large potatoes, peeled
500g (1 lb) asparagus
½ litre/1 pt chicken stock
Seasoning
500g/16 oz pasta
In a large saucepan or casserole, lightly fry the onion until
golden. Cube the potatoes and add in. Snap the woody ends off the
asparagus and discard, then chop the spears, leaving about ten
heads aside, and add the main stalks and remaining heads to the
pan. Stir well.
Add the chicken stock (or warm water with stock-cube), bring to
the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes or so.
Once everything is soft, add the seasoning and liquidise with a
blender, or pass through a sieve. Stir in the heads, and leave off
the heat on one side.
Boil a pan of salted water, and throw in the pasta: a flattish
shape works well here, to catch the sauce, such as
conchiglie or farfalle. After about 15 minutes,
drain with a slotted spoon and add to the crema sauce.
Warm on a low heat, then serve with freshly grated parmesan.
The strawberries are delicious this year, perhaps because
growing conditions have been so favourable. A Strawberry
pavlova is quite wonderful, and here I suggest you make
them individually (it saves arguments over the last slice). The
meringues can be made in advance, and make sure that the
strawberries are at room temperature.
3 large egg whites
175g/6 oz caster sugar
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 dessertspoon vinegar
275ml/10 fl. oz cream (double or
whipping)
1 (400g/1 lb) punnet strawberries
Heat the oven to Gas 2/150°C/300°F. Take a large, clean bowl and
beat the egg whites until they are stiff and cloudy, forming peaks.
Beat in half the sugar until glossy, then fold in the rest with a
metal spoon. Fold in the cornflour, vanilla essence, and vinegar
(which all help to give that marshmallow inside).
Line a baking sheet with baking parchment, and heap the meringue
mixture on to it in six circles, flattening each one in the centre
with a dimple. Then place in the oven, and bake for 1 to 1.5
hours.
Once cool, carefully remove the baking parchment. (They can be
stored for a day or two in advance in an airtight container.)
Wash the strawberries, remove their stalks, and halve large
ones. Whip the cream into soft peaks, and spread over each meringue
base, then arrange the fruit on top. Dust with sieved icing sugar,
and serve with a little extra pouring cream.