Hidden Treasures of Ethiopia: A guide to the remote
churches of an ancient land
María-José Friedlander and Bob
Friedlander
I. B. Tauris £25
(978-1-78076-816-8)
Church Times Bookshop £22.50
ETHIOPIA is one of the great centres of world Christianity. Its
Church was founded in the fourth century, when its king was
converted and thus made his country into one of the first Christian
kingdoms. Since then, it has tenaciously guarded its Christian
identity, in spite of a location surrounded by Islamic rule. Today,
about 60 million of its inhabitants are Christian, and some
projections suggest that its Orthodox Church will be the largest
national Orthodox Church in the world by 2050.
Some of the churches are well known, and firmly on the tourist
trail, such as the rock churches of Lalibela or the monasteries of
Lake Tana. Some of the well-known churches are included in this
guide, with descriptions of Debre Birhan Selassie with its angel
roof, and Yemrehanna Christos, within reach of Lalibela. But, for
most of the book, the author avoids the familiar places and instead
takes us off the beaten track to some of the more inaccessible
rock-hewn churches, requiring an arduous climb, or a lengthy boat
trip to distant islands.
She describes her visits with anecdotes about how she got there,
and her wonder at what she saw when she did. The paintings are
carefully described, with plans showing the arrangement of the
pictures on the walls, and many coloured plates showing the
spectacular settings of the churches and the rich painting in the
in- terior.
The commentary gives extracts from Ethiopian tradition, with
passages from the lives of the saints or events taken from
apocryphal gospels. We meet the colourful heroes of Ethiopian faith
- the cannibal Belay, who eats 78 unwary travellers, and yet is
granted salvation because of a single glass of water given to
beggar; the saint who prayed so long, standing on one leg, that his
leg atrophied and fell off. While Ethiopianists have analysed the
hagiographic texts, here the stories are presented without critical
comment. This has the advantage that it helps the reader enter the
rich and dramatic world of the Amhara Christian, and get a sense of
what this branch of Christian faith is like.
There is also an introductory history of the Church, and a
description of the distinctive style of church architecture and
worship. These give a sense of how the tradition of faith was
formed.
It is a large and sumptuously produced book. For those who have
visited Ethiopia, it will provide nostalgic reminders of what they
saw, and show them other places that they did not have time to
visit; and those who have not been will be encouraged to see for
themselves. It is also a vivid invitation to encounter one of the
great, but often overlooked, traditions of world Christianity.
The Revd Dr John Binns is Vicar of Great St Mary's,
Cambridge, and an Hon. Canon of Ely Cathedral.