OVER the past few years, the middle ground seems to have
disappeared in the wine trade. At the one end, the power of the
supermarkets has been consolidated; at the other, a number of fine
independent wine stores have sprung up. Threshers, Unwins, and
Augustus Barnett have all bitten the dust.
The one company that has filled the gap has been Majestic Wines.
It used to insist that you bought a minimum of 12 bottles; but,
more recently, this has been reduced to six. It has attracted
enough customers to ensure a steady expansion throughout the
country.
If you read the financial pages of the newspapers, you will have
seen that the first quarter of this year witnessed a slowdown in
Majestic's inexorable rise. This might account for some of the
excellent offers that it is making on its summer price-list, if you
are prepared to buy two bottles of the same wine. In this way, you
can obtain a discount on the regular retail price.
My attention was particularly taken by those wines under £10 a
bottle. Looking first at white wines, I would suggest the
refreshing vinho verde from Portugal, Quinta de Azevedo
2013, at just £6.98 (all prices quoted are per bottle, based on
your buying two). More full-bodied is the South African Sauvignon
Blanc 2013 from Vergelegen at £8.91. From the south of France came
a wine with the traditional Marsanne/Viognier blend of the northern
Rhône: here as a Vin de Pays d'Oc, the Bordière Nord 2013
(£6.79).
Every white-wine selection must now include something from New
Zealand, and I would plump for the Black Cottage Marlborough Pinot
Gris 2013 (£9.98). Finally, I was pleased to find three for which I
would expect to pay much more: two Burgundies, the Bourgogne
Chardonnay 2012 from Nicolas Potel (£8.65) and, from the
Cooperative Cellar at Buxy, a Montagny Vieilles Vignes 2010
(£8.91); and the Pouilly Blanc Fumé (£9.98).
For me, the best red-wine bargain is the Côtes du Ventoux 2013,
from the Rhône producers Perrin et Fils, at £6.74. For those who
like a claret with some maturity, there is the Ch. Le Vivier Médoc
2008 (£7.99); or, for something even older and less expensive, go
to Spain for the Valdepeñas Gran Reserva 2005 from Finca Los Altos
(£6.79).
From Chile, I would select the Santa Rita 120 Cabernet Franc
2013 (£5.19); and, from the Casablanca Valley, the First Class
Pinot Noir 2013 (£5.99). Representing Portugal, I would select from
the Douro, Quinta do Crasto, Crasto 2013, a full-bodied, fruity
wine for £9.34; and, from Italy, the Barbera d'Alba Sucule 2010 Lo
Zoccolaio (£8.92).
The rosé I have chosen is a newcomer to me - Ch. La Gravette,
Minervois 2013 (£6.79). This should be drunk well-chilled, and
should be perfect for relaxed sessions by the pool. Sadly, there
are no sherries within the price range, but half-bottles of two
luscious wines from California just make it at £9.98: they are
Quady's Black and Orange Muscats - a great finale to any meal.