PHYLLOXERA VASTATRIX sounds as though she might have been a
female equivalent of Attila the Hun. In her own way, however, she
devastated a much larger slice of the world, across six continents.
It is a small aphid, native to the east coast of the United States,
which lives by eating vine-roots.
It was first recognised in 1863. Within three years, it was
found in France; and, within 20 years, the production of wine in
that country had fallen by three-quarters. Its march was
relentless, and a host of ideas appeared about how to combat it -
most of them totally ineffective.
The solution that has now been generally accepted is to graft
vines on to native American rootstock that has developed immunity
to the insect's predations
Phylloxera has not yet conquered parts of Australia,
Hungary, and Argentina; and in the seaside vineyards of Colares,
near Lisbon, the vines are still propagated in the historic way, by
layering, and grow higgledy-piggledy close to the ground. The
vineyards of Chile, also, have managed to resist the disease -
perhaps it is the frontiers of the mountains on the one side, and
the Pacific Ocean on the other that have managed to keep it at
bay.
Additionally, there are individual plots of ungrafted vines
that, somehow, have survived unscathed. One of these is at Quinta
do Noval, where, from a plot called Nacional, planted mainly with
Sousão grapes, they produce approximately 2000 bottles a year of a
port with the distinction of having fetched the highest-ever price
at auction. Nacional is available from Berry Bros. & Rudd, but
prices are only on request.
By the time you read this, the Football World Cup will be near
the end, and Marks & Spencer now have three Brazilian
offerings. The first is Intenso Teroldego 2013 (£9.99). It is
full-bodied and tannic, and might well be bought for laying down
until the next World Cup in 2018.
From the same winery, which is in the Serra Gaucha, the
heartland of Brazilian wine production, comes Carnival Sparkling
Moscato (£9.99), which is an ideal party wine if you like your
wines sweet, and low in alcohol (7.5%).
The third wine is also a sparkler, which is not surprising, as
this style accounts for a third of the country's total wine
production. This wine comes from the sub-tropical vineyards of the
São Francisco Valley, and is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin
Blanc, and Verdejo grapes. I found this wine less appealing, but at
£8.99 it represents good value.
My favourite white wines from M&S include La Tuilerie
Pouilly Fumé 2103 (£13.99), and the Saumur Les Epinats 2012
(£9.99). Others are Ch. De la Jaubertie Bergerac 2013 (£9.99), the
Soave Classico 2013 (£7.99), and a crisp and steely Basque wine,
Alaia Txakoli 2013 (£11.99), made from Hondarrabi Zuri grape.
My favourite reds include the Italian Cascina Morassino
Barbaresco 2009 (£30), and the Washington State Canoe Ridge
Vineyard Cherry Street 2011 (£15.99), a subtle blend of six
different grape varieties.