MOST of Christmas, for us, was spent nursing English colds in
Rome.
I have always found food writers' purple passages about the
wonderful markets near their little place in France, or the cheeses
they discovered in the Alps, unnecessary. So I won't tell you about
the salletings in the market stalls of the Campo de Fiori, or the
colours, size, and crispness of the fruit and veg in even
back-street shops.
It was instructive to talk to Jan about Italian cooking. She
explained about the soffrito that is the basefor most
classic Italian dishes. Wikipedia puts this under the heading of
the French mirepoix (diced vegetables), but my reading in
Italy informs me that it was Italian cooking that inspired French
cuisine.
Soffrito is a finely chopped mixture of garlic, onion,
carrot, celery, and herbs, fried very gently in oil. The Germans
and Dutch use leeks, carrot, and celeriac, and call it
Suppengrün (soup greens), or soepgroente; and
Cajuns use onions, celery, and peppers, and refer to it as the Holy
Trinity.
Preboggion are bunches of fresh herbs, and I made this
Soup for us with bright-green fresh pesto.
olive oil
1 onion
1 celery stick
handful of parsley, marjoram, chives
green vegetables, such as Savoy cabbage,
watercress, spinach, leeks, chard, cut finely
1.2l (2 pt) vegetable stock
175g (6 oz) long-grain rice
4 tablespoons pesto
Finely chop the onion, celery, and herbs, and fry them very
gently for a few minutes. Add the green vegetables and stock, and
simmer till tender. Add the rice, and simmer until it is just
cooked. Just before serving the soup, stir in some pesto and
seasoning. Serve with grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese.
This Millecosedde soup ("a thousand
things") answered the need to use up all the odds and ends of pasta
and leftover vegetables.
olive oil
garlic cloves
1 onion
1 carrot
2 celery sticks
parsley and marjoram
1 bunch of spinach, shredded
half a cabbage, shredded finely
left-over cooked pulses
left-over dried pasta
potatoes, cut into small dice
mushrooms, sliced
1.2-1.8l (2-3 pt) vegetable stock
Make your soffrito with the oil, and finely chopped
onion, carrot, herbs, and celery. Add the potato, and cook for a
few minutes. Add the greens and mushrooms, and cook for a few more
minutes. Add the pasta, and pour in enough stock for the pasta to
cook. Allow the soup to simmer until the pasta is tender, and then
add any cooked pulses you care to (lentils, chickpeas), and more
stock to get the consistency you desire. Season, and serve with
grated pecorino cheese.