I ATTENDED a memorial service recently, at St Bride's, Fleet
Street, for a leading personality in the wine world. A number of
people I might have expected were not there - where were they? They
were in Bordeaux, as part of the annual ritual of tasting the past
vintage.
The message that is coming back is that one should not invest
too much money in 2013 vintage claret: the quality overall is
varied, and on the whole the wines are lightweights. Inadequate
ripeness at the time of picking was a problem, and, as Olivier
Berruet, the winemaker at the Pomerol vineyard Château Pétrus has
said, this demanded "a very Burgundy approach".
This reminds me of when I first went to Bordeaux, in 1960, and
asked naïvely of one of the patriarchs of the trade, "Is Pomerol
the most Burgundy-like of the wines of Bordeaux?" He replied,
witheringly: "My boy, I do not accept that Burgundy exists."
Most of the best-known châteaux now produce second wines. Often,
these represent excellent value for money, but it appears that many
producers have concentrated so much with the 2013 vintage on the
quality of their first wines, that the second wines have suffered
disproportionately as a result.
We have yet to learn what prices will be asked for all these
wines, but it would appear that the best thing to do is to wait
until they appear on the wine merchants' shelves.
A series of disappointing vintages has meant that wine prices on
the Bordeaux marketplace have risen by more than a quarter in the
past six months. Notwithstanding all this, it seems as though there
is still a thirst for the wines in Britain. The reason for this is
that, while attention may focus on such prestigious names as
Saint-Émilion, and Pomerol, there is a host of vineyards from the
lesser appellations producing drinkable wines at reasonable
prices.
As well as wines under a château name, most merchants sell
blends under a brand name. Mouton Cadet, once the second wine of
Château Mouton-Rothschild, but now a simple Bordeaux blend, is
available for about £10.50. Others include Calvet Limited Release
Merlot, at Morrisons and Waitrose (£7-£7.50).
If you want something with more body and tannins, I would
suggest Le Grand Chai Médoc 2010 (Laithwaites £11.99), or M&S's
Classic Claret 2011 (£7.99). For white wines, Calvet has a Limited
Release Sauvignon Blanc at Sainsbury's and Waitrose (about £7), and
a Sémillon dominant Prestige de Calvet Blanc (Morrison's &
Tesco £11-£12).
Most red château wines on sale in the multiples are mainly
Merlot-based. This makes them softer and ready to drink earlier. I
have enjoyed Ch. Segonzac 2010, from Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
(Waitrose £9.99), and Ch. Méaume, Bordeaux Supérieur, 2010
(Majestic £9.99).
For that bottle of Bordeaux that is just a little bit better,
look at some of the mail-order companies, such as Avery's,
Laithwaites (after all, it started out as Bordeaux Direct), and
that repository of great bottles, the Wine Society. Forget the 2013
vintage for the moment.