A PASSION Sunday
gastronomic tradition has been successfully revived by a Yorkshire
grocer.
Carlin peas were eaten in
northern England on the Sunday before Palm Sunday - often known as
Carlin Sunday - but the tradition which, some say, dates from the
14th century died out in the 1950s.
The dark-brown dried peas
Pisum sativum are soaked overnight before being fried in
beef dripping, liberally dosed with salt and vinegar, and served
either in a white soup-cup or a cone of paper.
Gary Jefferson, who runs
a family food business in Richmond, North Yorkshire, recalled his
grandparents talking about Carlin Sunday, and decided to
reintroduce the peas. "Traditions like these die out because people
today don't have time to remember them, or other ideas come along,
but they should be saved," he said.
"It was a great success.
We cooked ours in ham stock, and added a dash of Henderson's
Relish. It was mainly older people who could remember them from
their childhood. We sold about four kilos dried weight of Carlins,
and I shall certainly do it again next year."
Traditionally, children
in the North-East and Yorkshire ate them after a special church
service, when they would recite the rhyme: "Tid, Mid, Miserai,
Carlin, Palm, Paste Egg Day, We shall have a holiday, Bonny frocks
on Easter Day."
There are two versions of
the dish's origin. One dates from 1327, when Robert the Bruce laid
siege to Newcastle upon Tyne. The starving citizens were saved on
Passion Sunday when a ship arrived from Norway with a cargo of
Carlins. Fortified by the peas, the defenders fought on, forcing
the Scots to turn their attention on Durham.
The alternative version dates from 1644, when Royalist Newcastle
was besieged by Scots during the Civil War. This time, their
saviour was a cargo of peas on a French vessel.