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The paintings that came with a castle attached

12 July 2013

Jonathan Ruffer is transforming Auckland Castle into a tourist attraction. Paul Handley talked to him

Picture-hooked: Jonathan Ruffer, surrounded by the Zurbaráns

Picture-hooked: Jonathan Ruffer, surrounded by the Zurbaráns

"THIS mustn't become the Jonathan Ruffer show." The warning came because I had asked Jonathan Ruffer about the money he has committed to putting into Auckland Castle, in County Durham, to turn it from a grand, slightly down-at-heel bishop's residence into a place that will bring 100,000 visitors a year to a depressed town in the north-east.

City investor becomes country magnate - from a distance it looks like a vanity project, except that there's one thing missing. I see no trace of vanity in Mr Ruffer.

For one thing, he didn't want the castle. Growing up in the 1960s, he had friends whose lives were "torn apart" by the burden of financing ancient piles that they could no longer afford. "I have had to overcome a phobia of castles."

Even now, he has no interest in architectural heritage. What he was really after were some paintings, and, even then, not to possess them, but to preserve them in the room that was built for them.

The story of the Zurbaráns is well known to readers of this paper, thanks, in particular, to the moment in December 2011 when the story threatened to descend into farce (News, 16 December). It began in 2010, when the Church Commissioners' review of see houses came round to Durham.

How could the Church justify holding on to such a large and potentially expensive property, especially in a region where the economy, and thus parish funding, was in a bad way? In particular, there were the paintings of Joseph and his 12 sons, all but one of them by the Spanish master Francisco de Zurbarán. (The original Benjamin is in Grimsthorpe Castle in Lincolnshire; what hangs in Auckland Castle is a decent 18th-century copy.)

The Commissioners valued the paintings at £15 million and announced in 2010 that they would put them up for sale.

When Mr Ruffer heard about them, his first thought was that it was a pity, but inevitable. He was working full-time running Ruffer, a successful investment house (he now works there half the week). How it became successful is a mystery to himself, since his first ten years after university were spent failing at things, leaving him with what he describes as a "self-image of incompetence".

Subsequently, however, he and his colleagues have been able to predict the grand movements of the market, including the cataclysm of the 2008 credit crunch. They currently manage £16 billion of assets.

While the Commissioners were considering the fate of the Zurbaráns, Mr Ruffer was going through his own self-examination. He describes himself as a conservative Evangelical, having come to faith at the end of his time at Cambridge, and attending St Helen's, Bishopsgate, in the City of London, but he doesn't appear to be a typical one. "I'm a very ambivalent person. I see both sides of an argument. In the battle between truth and love, I always come down on the side of love."

He finds Evangelicalism occasionally exasperating, but says that being "pummelled by the truth" keeps him "humble" though not necessarily acquiescent: "Some of my most valuable experiences have been encounters with heavy-duty Evangelicals, where we both end up silent."

The desire for silence in a less exhausting context led him to an eight-day Ignatian retreat in Wales, in 2010. While there, he heard God telling him to stop working in the City. He decide to give most of his money away, as an act of self-preservation. "If a great deal of money comes to you, and you hang on to it, it shackles you. I compare it with food: it's supposed to pass through you. If it doesn't, it can kill you."

This is not virtuous: "There's been absolutely no sacrifice at all. The small percentage that I've kept enables me to live far more comfortably than most other people."

His mentor in this has been the Revd Peter Watherston, who, in the mid-1970s, financed the Mayflower Centre in the East End of London. Mr Ruffer thought that he, too, would become involved in urban regeneration. So where do the Zurbaráns come in?

First, he is a collector of 18th- century Spanish art, and recognises the Zurbaráns as the high- watermark of the Baroque period. Second, there was the price. He had scraped together £15 million to give away. The Commissioners were asking £15 million.

A key part of his vision was to preserve the paintings for the north-east. He saw their sale as yet another example of the asset-stripping of a region brought low by the closing of the mines, and the collapse of heavy industry.

"I was the merchant who sells all that he has to buy the pearl of great price: £15 million was literally all that I had. It's hard to see 13 pictures as a pearl, but that's what 'Baroque' actually means: 'a deformed pearl'." He put in his bid.

The Commissioners turned him down.

"I thought: bloody hell: they've told the people of Bishop Auckland that they can keep the pictures if they can raise £15 million."

In late December 2010, a meeting with Jacob Rothschild, the banker and philanthropist, helped Mr Ruffer realise that, in fact, his offer to buy the Zurbaráns and keep them in situ had put the Commissioners in a quandary. It meant that the Commissioners could not get vacant possession of the castle in order to dispose of it. He would have to take responsibility for the castle as well.

In February 2011, the Commissioners agreed. Just before they went public with the deal, on 28 March Mr Ruffer received a short email from Andrew Brown, the Commissioners' chief executive. He paid it little heed at the time, but, as negotiations over the deal stretched into the autumn, he realised that the email had added a number of conditions - this, despite assurances given in the House of Commons that there were no strings attached to the deal. In frustration, Mr Ruffer contemplated withdrawing. That was when he spoke to the Church Times.

The crisis galvanised the new Bishop of Durham, the Rt Revd Justin Welby, into action. He brokered a meeting, which took place in February 2012 in the peace yurt attached to St Ethelburga's, Bishopsgate. Before the meeting, the Commissioners were asking £15 million for the Zurbaráns and £1.7 million for the castle, without the outbuildings.

After the meeting, Mr Ruffer had everything for £11 million. "My argument was that the castle was clearly a cost, not an asset." And so it has proved. In the end, the bill was broken down as: £9 million for the paintings, and £2 million for the castle.

But the Commissioners' assets committee had to be persuaded that they were getting good value. Afterwards, Mr Ruffer agreed that - should his trust sell the paintings in the future - the Commissioners would get half the profits. Since the trust's purpose is to keep the paintings in Auckland Castle for perpetuity, it seemed to him to be little more than a courtesy.

Well, up to a point. Because the Commissioners still have a stake in the paintings, their permission has to be sought if they go out on loan.

On one occasion, this meant that Mr Ruffer was asked for £25,000 in upfront legal fees from Mishcon, the Commissioners' lawyers. He refused to pay.

None of this has dented Mr Ruffer's conviction that future Bishops of Durham should continue to work out of Auckland Castle. The last one to live there was Dr Tom Wright, and now a new house has been bought a few miles away.

Mr Ruffer has set aside five of the six Georgian drawing rooms at the castle for the Bishop's offices. At present, too, the diocesan offices are housed in the castle, though the plan is that they move out next year.

Mr Ruffer shares the view that the Bishop should resist being drawn into Durham City. By contrast, he speaks of Bishop Auckland as a desert, and his mission to "bring something lovely back to here".

Or, rather, to keep it. Auckland Castle has been owned by the Bishops of Durham for 800 years. Not for nothing do the road signs into the county tell of the land of Prince Bishops. Durham was a buffer zone when the Scots came marauding over the border; the Bishop's coat of arms contains a sword as well as a crozier.

The Prince Bishops, dating from 1075, were virtually absolute monarchs, setting taxes, minting coins, administering justice. Auckland Castle was originally built as a manor house in 1182, and was used by the bishops as a hunting lodge. An 11th-century Bishop, perhaps preferring a herd of deer to his flock, moved from Durham Castle and adopted Auckland as his main residence.

After the Civil War, Sir Arthur Haselrig bought it, demolished most of the castle, including the chapel, and built a more fitting 17th- century country house. Come the Restoration, the learned Bishop Cosin reversed the trend, turning Haselrig's banqueting hall into a chapel, the largest private chapel in Europe. (Haselrig died in January 1661, after a short and presumably unpleasant stay in the Tower of London.)

Nearly 100 years later, Bishop Richard Trevor bought the Zurbaráns, designing the dining hall for their hanging. Photographs don't do justice to these 13 huge canvases, a family of giants pacing round the room. They had been painted in Spain, where, since the expulsion of 1492, no Jew was allowed to live openly. Bishop Trevor bought them in 1756, three years after the Jew Bill had been introduced into the Lords to permit the naturalisation of British Jews, and two years after its defeat by Tory objectors in the House of Commons. These are paintings with a political history.

For the present, the paintings are the centrepiece of a visit to Auckland Castle. The castle opened to the public a couple of months ago. The potential of the place has still to be realised, but that at least means that, at present, having bought your £8 ticket, you are not bothered by large crowds.

Outside, visitors have the run of formal gardens and the slightly unkempt deer park, with several Grade I listed buildings dotted about. Among them is the 1770s Deerhouse, built and maintained as a folly, and a walled, terraced garden. Mr Ruffer hopes to restore the views that existed when the "sensationally important" park was laid out by Jeremiah Dixon in the 1760s.

At present, the indoor experience doesn't match the outdoor one, especially with many of the finer rooms leased to the Bishop for his official use. But this will change. And there will be other visitor atteractions.

For one thing, there is the rich history of the Prince Bishops to tell. For another, the Revd Professor Diarmaid MacCulloch has been commissioned to produce an exhibition of Christianity in the UK - which will be housed at Auckland.

Professor MacCulloch waxes enthusiastic about the site: "If you were to put it on a scale of the great church buildings of Europe, I think you'd nearly be up to the Vatican, or Avignon, the Pope's Palace there."

Mr Ruffer also sees the castle as a place of future pilgrimage. He enthuses about the 14-mile walk from Durham, along the path of a disused railway line. It's a glimpse of the spiritual motivation behind the project.

I don't know whether he does this with his investment clients, but two or three times in our conversation Mr Ruffer compares himself with St Peter, and not in a good way.

"I'm like St Peter walking on the water. That's not to give myself any credit - 'Look at me, walking on the water' - but because I'm always on the point of sinking in and drowning. What I'm doing here is completely beyond my capabilities. My main sensation is fear.

"And that makes me pray. Prayer is like medicine: it's not a pleasure, or a duty, but like insulin. When I've spent time in prayer, I'm calmed for 12 hours." When it wears off, he has to pray some more.

So, what about the finances? Auckland Castle is, he reckons, a £50-million project. His initial offer is almost back up to £15 million now, thanks to work done on the castle. He has pledged another £10 million to create an endowment fund; and the Heritage Lottery Fund will potentially contribute £10 million, leaving £15 million or so to find.

There is no doubt that he is in this for the long haul. He walks me back towards the town, past the gatehouse that is now his home for half the week. He gestures towards the area where he hopes to site a restaurant, and tells me to look out for the Queen's Head pub in town, which they've just bought. I wonder about having lunch there, but it is boarded up, waiting, perhaps, for St Peter to reach it across the waves.

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