LUCY H. YATES wrote The Country Housewife’s Book (first published in 1934 and now reissued by Persephone Books at £12; 978-1-909-1577-0-7) for a very different reader from that of Rachel and Margaret Ryan’s book (Cookery, 10 February). You do not ponder the bought ingredients of Yates’s larder: you amass a large collection of preserving jars and accoutrements against harvest times.
There are chapters on how to sort, wash, and use feathers; and notes on growing fruits and vegetables. She tells you what to do with pine cones, and how to pack flowers for posting.
I rather like this note about Lent flowers for the house: “Sprays of almond blossom and of willow (or palm) come at the right time of the year for combining with yellow narcissi and early tulips, and the stems of the one should be cut as long as possible so as to overreach the shorter stems of the bulbs.
“Yellow and pink always give an effect of spring freshness, and if there are no long-stemmed holders, use clips of galvanised wire to set in a dish or bowl and let that hold some moss or a clump of saxifrage.”
Yates’s readers might also wish to brew their own alcoholic drinks. (She makes a passing allusion to the excellence of potato whisky, although, alas, no recipe is given.)
More useful might be Egg nog (for colds).
3 eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately
570ml (1 pt) full-cream milk
half a teacup of fine sugar
half a glasssful of best brandy nutmeg to flavour
Beat the eggs, stir in the sugar, heat the milk and add it gradually, lastly the brandy and nutmeg. Drink as hot as possible.
I also liked this Lemon jelly marmalade. “This is delicate, rather sharp in flavour, and is much liked by invalids.” Alas, who has time to be an invalid? But for those who have someone to concoct tempting little trays, or if you like lemon marmalade:
12 juicy lemons
900g (2 lb) sugar
1.140l (2 pt) water
Pare the rind as thinly as possible, and mince very finely. Cut the fruit in pieces, and press out the juice into a bowl, straining to remove pips and pith. Add the water to the juice with the minced rind. Boil gently for 20 minutes, then add sugar, and, after this is dissolved, boil for a further 20 minutes, and put into small glass jars. This marmalade should be very clear and delicate in appearance.
Another invalid’s offering is Egg emulsion (for sore throats).
2 eggs, perfectly new-laid, if possible warm from the nest
juice of two ripe lemons
2 large spoonfuls thick honey
2 large spoonfuls pure olive oil
Squeeze the lemon juice over the eggs, keeping in a basin until shells have dissolved. Beat up well with the honey and oil. Continue beating until a perfectly smooth emulsion results, then bottle it and cork well.
The dose is a tablespoonful. At your own risk (raw egg).