DIAMONDS may be the precious commodity on most people's minds in
this Jubilee year, but gold takes centre stage in an ambitious
exhibition at the Goldsmiths' Hall to celebrate 4500 years of
British gold. And while Portia's suitors were warned that "all that
glisters is not gold," it is very much the real McCoy at Foster
Lane: a dazzling display of more than 400 golden objects from
unrefined nugget of pure Cornish gold to William Beckford's golden
teapot and some glittering prizes from the world of sport.
The exhibition, curated by Dr Helen Clifford and uniting
rarities from institutions and private collections across the
country, is the largest ever staged by the Goldsmiths, and case
after successive case of coins, cutlery jewels, medals and regalia
build up an irresistible sense of how gold has permeated every
aspect of British life, not only its great institutions of Church,
monarchy, and commerce but also the private rituals of daily
life.
Gold's rarity, its radiant incorruptability, weight, and sheer
malleability meant that the metal was from early times prized above
all others (except when it came to making weapons, for which it was
too soft). The purity of gold made
it the perfect partner for sacred ceremonies, and the equation
of godliness with gold was readily employed by the Anglo-Saxon
Church, as archeological finds
such as the Warminster Jewel
reveal.
This little rock crystal, held in a golden frame and set with a
deep blue glass cabochon, is thought to be the handle of an
aestel or manuscript pointer, of the sort sent to all the
parishes in his kingdom by King Alfred as an accompaniment to his
translation of Pope Gregory's Pastoral Care. The jewel
emphasised the value of the text, and the ceremony surrounding its
careful study.
Most medieval religious gold was lost to the crucibles of the
Reformation, but rare high-quality survivals include a magnificent
brooch in the collection of New College, Oxford. Fashioned in the
shape of a letter M, this diminutive 14th-century jewel manages to
find room to include a tiny annunciation scene, with the figures of
the Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin placed within the twin arches
of the letter form. Lavishly set with cabochon cut stones, the
brooch spells out the mastery of its medieval goldsmith, whose
livery company was granted its first royal charter in 1327.
Some small personal devotional gold objects survived the
iconoclasm of the 16th century only by being lost first. The
lozenge-shaped reliquary known as the Middleham Jewel dates from
c.1450, and is engraved with the Trinity on the front, the
Nativity of Christ on the verso; it was evidently lost when quite
new, but its owner's loss became our gain when it was discovered by
a metal detector in 1985.
Even more remarkable is the survival of Bishop Fox's gold
chalice and patten. The earliest known piece of religious
hallmarked gold, stamped with the letter k to denote the year
1507-08, it was given by the Bishop to Corpus Christi, the college
that he founded in 1515. Being unjewelled, the chalice seems almost
plain by Continental standards of the day, but the very fact of its
being made in solid gold marks it out as a gift befitting the
Bishop of Winchester, one of the country's richest dioceses.
The Welshpool Communion Cup reveals something of the story of
gold itself. Made from "purest Guinea gold" in c.1662, it
was presented by Thomas Davies to his home town in thanks for his
safe return after service with the East India Company. Gold
imported from the West African Guinea coast generated considerable
wealth in Britain - on the back of its plentiful supply, a coin of
the same name was introduced in 1663, and quickly became the
premier currency in Europe.
The ease with which gold can be melted down and refashioned also
played a part in the superb medieval-style chalice made by the
ecclesiastical goldsmith Dunstan Pruden for Liverpool Metropolitan
(Roman Catholic) Cathedral in 1958 from 300 donated wedding
rings.
In this jubilee year, the exhibition fittingly includes
significant pieces of royal gold, none better illustrating the
confluence of the royal and the sacred than the gold ampulla used
to anoint Charles I at his Scottish coronation at Holyrood House in
1633. The talismanic powers of royalty and gold also combine in a
gold "touchpiece" presented by Charles II for the curing of the
tubercular infection scrofula, the King's Evil. Appropriately, the
gold coins most often used for this purpose were known as
Angels.
But it is not just the religious and royal artefacts that
impress: the scope of this exhibition ensures that there is
something for everyone: for numismatists, there is a gold coin from
every British monarch since Edward III; for militarians, there are
medals and regalia, such as Ethiopa's magnificent Badge of the
Order of Solomon; while, for social historians, there are the
golden trinkets that mark our passage through life - from teething
rattle to cigarette case and mourning rings.
In all areas, the level of craftsmanship on display is as
breathtaking, as the material it deploys, from the unknown maker
responsible for the Snettisham torc to time-burnished names such as
Paul de Lamerie and Omar Ramsden and Britain's current crop of
designer-makers, whose exquisite work is eloquent testament of the
goldsmith's evolving art.
"Gold: Power and Allure" is at Goldsmiths' Hall, Foster
Lane, London EC2, until 28 July. Phone 020 7606 7010.
www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk