I HAVE not yet posted my letter to Father Christmas, but here
are some bottles I might ask for. (I rank wines I like into two
classes: those I might buy myself, and those I would like someone
else to give me. My Christmas wishes include some of both.)
I feel that some sparkle is necessary at Christmas. Therefore, I
would ask for a bottle of Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne NV
(the Wine Society, £25). This comes from a dedicated small
producer, whom I have known for a number of years, in the
delightfully named village of Merfy. As a cheaper alternative, I
would welcome some South African Graham Beck NV Brut (Waitrose,
£13.99).
Dry white wine is always welcome, and I would certainly enjoy
both the Pernand Vergelesses les Combottes Domaine Rapet 2010
(Marks & Spencer, £26), and the Errazuriz Single Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc 2011, from the newly officially recognised Chilean
wine region of Aconcagua Costa (Waitrose, £11.99).
My real love, however, is red wine, and here my favourite grape
varieties are the Pinot Noir, the Cabernet Franc, and the Malbec.
Starting with the last grape, I would like Father Christmas to find
me some magnums of Loire producer Jean-Franҫois Mériau's Cent
Visages 2009. Generally, in Touraine, this grape is known as the
Cot, but, strangely, in this case it is given that name on the back
label, and Malbec on the front. I know the wine is on sale in this
country, but I do not know where, and there were no magnums
available at the vineyard when I called in recently.
Of course, it is the vineyards of Mendoza, in Argentina, that
are the true homeland of the grape, and Majestic Wines have a true
bargain at £7.99 per bottle (if you buy two bottles) in Gougenheim
Malbec 2099.
My sole representative of Cabernet Franc comes from Tanners of
Shrewsbury; it is their Saumur Champigny Tuffe Ch. Du Hureau 2009
(£11.80). As for Pinot Noirs, I could quite easily choose not just
a first XI, but will try to restrict myself. Chile must be strongly
represented, and I would start with the Co-op's Pinot Noir from the
Casablanca Valley (£9.99), and follow with Leyda Vineyards Las
Brisas 2011 (Great Western Wines £13.25). From New Zealand, I would
have any wine from Felton Road, in Central Otago: perhaps their
Block 3 is my first choice, or the incomparable Ata Rangi, from
Martinborough. From Burgundy, I would try to find a Waitrose branch
with stocks of Pommard les Petits Noizons Domaine de la Vougeraie
2009 (£35.99).
For those with big chimneys, and purses, most wine merchants are
offering intriguing mixed cases for Christmas. I particularly like
the thought of receiving Tanner's Christmas Indulgence case (£290
for 12 bottles), or the Vintners' Reserves case from Berry Bros.
& Rudd (£545 for 12 bottles). A final suggestion for the true
wine-buff: Jancis Robinson's Wine Grapes, a monumental
work giving everything you might want to know about almost 1400
different grape varieties from around the world.
Here's wishing you a peaceful and fulfilled Christmas.