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Time Out: Gower power

by
18 February 2009

by < b>Simon Jones

Where?

Situated on the western end of Swansea Bay, Oystermouth has been known as The Mumbles ever since the Romans decided that the two islands off the headland looked like a pair of, ahem, mammelles.

Getting there

Coming west on the M4, head into Swansea on the A483. Then take the A4067, which becomes Mumbles Road. Otherwise, Swansea has a large train terminal; from there get a Gower Explorer bus pass or use the old railway cyclepath — a pleasant five-mile pull around the bay.

Why?

The Mumbles is a gateway to the wild and mystical Gower Peninsula, the first “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” in the UK. But it offers the amenities of a Victorian seaside town.

What to see?

History buffs can head up to the castle, which dates from a time when the area was a Norman frontier. All Saints’ Church is also worth a look: although medieval, it was built on the site of a Roman villa. The bells come from the Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba, and buried in the graveyard is Thomas “bowdlerise” Bowdler.

See the coast on a boat trip or a quad-bike trek — or, for a more unusual angle, book a kite-boarding lesson from £15 per hour. To really get away from it all, head inland to Dryad Bushcraft in Killay for some “Wilder­ness bushcraft training”.

Child-friendly?

There is plenty to do on the pier, including the usual games and a skating rink. Blackpill Lido near by has a paddling pool and play area next to the beach: get there on the promenade train. Older kids would enjoy the horse riding, archery, and indoor climbing at Clyne Farm.

The most adventurous could try canoeing and abseiling, although celebrity spotters might want to keep a look out for Mumbles-born Cath­erine Zeta-Jones, who still has a house in the area.

Refreshments

Dryad also offers a day-long “Wilder­ness gourmet” course, with food col­lected and cooked on open fires. If that sounds too much like hard work, head over to 698, winner of the “Best New Restaurant in Wales” award.

For traditional Welsh fare — salt-marsh lamb, or cockles from Pen­clawdd — visit The Mermaid, one of Dylan Thomas’s old haunts. But try not to get stuck on the infamous “Mumbles Mile”, scene of many a pub crawl.

Near by

All of the peninsula is worth explor­ing. Take the coastal path and go as far as your legs can bear. Collapse into one of many welcoming pubs when you can manage no more.

On a wet day — we are in Wales, after all — try the Chocolate Factory Tour at Fforestfach (free samples) or head into Swansea for one of its museums.

Further information

http://visitswanseabay.com

http://www.enjoygower.com

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