back back to Pastimes previous previous story  |  next story next

Cookery: Breaking the rules

AS I CONTINUE to read Sarah Stancliffe’s Christian Aid Book of Simple Feasts, it reminds me of some of those magical kitchen manoeuvres that break all the rules of everyday cooking.

Take Rolled lemon cream — are we not always so careful never to let cream boil; and surely lemon juice would just curdle everything? Be brave. For 8-10 people:

  16 fl. oz (1 pint) double cream

  4 dessertspoons granulated sugar

  juice of 1½ lemons

Pour the cream into a large saucepan and stir in the sugar. Boil until it rises in the pan, remove from the heat before it boils over, add the lemon juice, and leave to cool. When really thick and smooth, refrigerate. Serve in small quantities, on its own or perhaps with sponge fingers or crisp almond biscuits.

Choux pastry is also one of those alarming culinary processes requiring resurrection faith. As you add eggs to the roux, or water to the baking tray, all will seem lost until your little éclairs rise triumphant from the oven. Josceline Dimbleby’s Pea puffs tested even my credulity: éclairs with pea filling? Taste and see. This would feed 6-8 sceptics.

  140g (5oz) plain flour

  1 teaspoon salt

  ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

  8 fl. oz (½ pint) water

  100g (4oz) butter

  3 large eggs

  100g (4oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

For the filling:

  450g (1lb) frozen peas

  2 large handfuls fresh mint leaves

  4 tablespoons single cream

  ½-1 whole nutmeg, grated

  salt and black pepper

  6-8 fl. oz good quality mayonnaise

To make the puffs, sift the flour, salt, and cayenne pepper into a bowl. Bring the water and butter to the boil in a large heavy saucepan, stirring until the butter melts. When it boils, tip in all the flour and beat with a wooden spoon until smooth (still over the heat). Continue beating vigorously until the mixture leaves the side of the pan.

Remove from the heat and beat in the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly between each. Continue until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Beat in all but one ounce of the cheese.

Preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C/ Gas 7. Grease a large baking tray (I also then run it under the cold tap so that the choux steams slightly) and spoon on about 20 dessertspoons of the mixture, a little apart. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the top of the puffs. Bake in the centre of the oven for 25-30 minutes until well risen and golden. Remove carefully and cool on a rack.

Meanwhile, to make the filling, cook the frozen peas, drain, and rinse with cold water. Put them in the liquidiser with the mint leaves and cream. Whizz to a thick mush — not completely smooth. Season generously with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper, tasting as you go. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the mayonnaise.

When the puffs are cold, slit them open horizontally, leaving one side attached as a hinge, and spoon the pea mayonnaise into them. Serve on individual plates, or on a large dish decorated with lettuce leaves.



back back to Pastimes up back to top previous previous story  |  next story next


© Church Times 2006 - All rights reserved

Website by Baigent