ANYONE who reads this column regularly will realise that thereare certain subjects that I shy away from - and one of them isItalian wines. It is not that I haven't visited the vineyards: myfirst visit to the country was more than 50 years ago. A friend andI drove in an A40 van across the Alps, to the Italian Riviera. Thestrains of "Volare" were in the air, and I decided thatthere was nothing worse than a bad bottle of Italian wine. At thattime, every coffee-bar had candles guttering ...
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